For a city that prides its self on steak and other animal delicacies, Buenos Aires is surprisingly veg-friendly. Vegans will have no trouble finding lots of new and familiar foods to eat when shopping at local stores, supermarkets, health food stores and in Chinatown.
There are quite a few vegetarian restaurants in Buenos Aires but don’t expect to walk past one unexpectedly. The first step to surviving as a vegan in Buenos Aires is to find a kitchen.
We’ve rented an apartment with some friends in the Palermo Hollywood area. Having a kitchen is really helping us keep the cost of our meals down. We’ve done a few grocery runs and have been delighted with the selection.
With grocery shopping comes the obligation to read ingredients. This is always a challenge when you’re not versed in the language. In Buenos Aires, where the local language is Spanish, we know to pass on anything with leche, huevos, queso and mantequilla (milk, eggs, cheese and butter). Thankfully, the friends we’re traveling with also speak a bit of Spanish and have been helping us decode ingredient lists.
Our grocery shopping adventures have brought us to many different stores. We’ve shopped at small family-run stores and dieteticas (health food stores), as well as large supermarkets and Asian grocery stores in Barrio de Chino (Chinatonw). Here’s what we’ve found…
Convenience Stores
At convenience stores you can find a decent selection of fresh fruit and vegetables, whole grain bread, beans, rice, pasta and milanesas de soja (soybean cutlets). The items pictured above cost 50 Argentinian pesos ($14 USD).
Dieteticas
We’ve come across a few dieteticas but only stumbled upon one during open hours. They all seem to be quite small and prices are a bit higher than what you’ll find at supermarkets or in Barrio de Chino. At Dietetica Dulces Sugerencias we found a giant carob and nut brownie for 5.20 pesos ($1.40 USD). We also saw powdered soy milk (8 pesos), along with all of the typical dry bulk food, spices, teas, granola, bread and baked goods. Some of the baked goods are free of dairy, eggs and butter but most contain miel (honey).
HappyCow only lists a few health food stores. For a more comprehensive list, visit this link.
Jumbo Supermarket
Avenida Bullrich 345 – Capital Federal
4778-8011 / 22
Monday – Sunday 08:00 – 22:00 hs.
Jumbo is what it sounds like, a massive supermarket. It’s akin to Walmart with a large grocery section and also sells household items, books, clothing and more. I was happy to find they have a large produce section and small specialty sections for organic, gluten free, kosher and imported foods.
On one trip to Jumbo we bought the items pictured above. We spent 95 pesos ($25 USD). The most expensive item was the organic quinoa, ringing in at 27 pesos. My favourite purchase was the TeaZone chai tea flavoured jam.
Casa China
Arribenos 2193, Belgrano, Buenos Aires, Argentina
011-47861142
In Buenos Aires, there are some things you just can’t find at convenience stores or supermarkets. If you’re looking for things like soy milk, rice milk, hummus, peanut butter, seitan, tofu or vegan cookies and don’t want to pay the high prices you’ll find at dieteticas, take a trip to Barrio de Chino. The second grocery store we checked out was Casa China. Our adventure for the day ended there after we found everything we needed. Casa China has an impressive selection of teas, sauces, nuts, seeds, tofu, seitan, soy products, veggie burgers, healthy cookies and biscuits, granola bars, dry beans and grains.
Shopping trip 1: For 70 Argentinian pesos ($19 USD), we picked up lentils, an avocado, tomatoes, seitan, seitan empanadas, bread, amaranth and lemon cookies, coconut cashew granola bar, peanut butter and brown rice.
Shopping Trip 2: For 90 Argentinian pesos ($25 USD), we bought curry powder, ground coriander, imported salsa (for a pricey 17 pesos), peanut and sweet rice milk, locally made chimichurri sauce, quinoa flour cookies, cashew coconut granola bar, hazelnut granola bar, chickpeas, tomatoes, tortillas, fresh ginger, chocolate covered lentils and granola.
Barrio de Chino is easily accessible by subway. Take the green line, letter D, to the Juramento station. Walk down Juramento towards the railroad tracks, the addresses will get lower in number. Barrio de Chino begins on the left after the railroad crossing, right before the 1600 block. If you prefer the bus, you can take the 15, 42 or 29.
Milanesas de Soja
One popular vegan item I’ve seen at convenience stores, supermarkets and in Barrio de Chino is milanesa de soja. When you translate the name to English, it’s something like soybean cutlet or breaded soya. There are lots of varieties, including spinach, green onion, ham, classic and salt free. They’re longer and thinner than regular veggie burgers and are breaded. They taste okay but aren’t my favourite thing. I think they are worth trying if you haven’t come across them before. The most common brand I’ve seen is made by Vegetalex. They also make soy hot dogs but they contain eggs.
To see some of the meals we’ve made with all these groceries, check out my post about homemade vegan meals in Buenos Aires.
















12 Comments »
I think this is all great!!!!!
Can’t wait to finally visit here and now where to go!!!
Im day 20 practicing vegan and feel great! I also started 8 week unlimited yoga and have been out 5 days a week!
Love your blog!
Ahhh, Buenos Aires. My least favorite place on the planet. Although it is home to one of my favorite restaurants ever: Bio. You must must must go there. It is sunny and adorable and delicious. I still drink my tea every day out of the clay teapot and cups I bought there. It’s vegetarian but has plenty for vegans.
http://www.biorestaurant.com.ar/
When I was in Argentina I stayed with a family and I was DYING for some veggies the whole time. I pretty much ate empanadas 24/7 (I was just vegetarian, not vegan, at the time). It was probably the least nutritious 10 days of my life. Sounds like you are faring much better though! Love the blog!
Thanks for the feeback, Liz. I ate at Bio on my first night in BA and will be posting about the experience soon :)
So far, I’ve only suffered through one seitan empanada. I did buy enpanadas on two different occasions but the first one turned out to have cheese in it. We tried to explain we were looking for one without cheese/dairy. Spanish skills fail. Oh well, friends managed to enjoy it.
This is a great article. If I ever go to B.A., I’ll know what to do! Thanks guys.
A good thing to eat in Buenos Aires is the delicious Faina, you can find it in most supermarkets as a floor to mix wit water and spices and bake it, or in the pizza places, like Guerrin (Av. Corrientes 1368 – They also has two vegan pizzas Pomodoro and Fugazza)
BTW, great blog, it’s always nice when you can have some help on vegan eating in travels.
Excellent article, sometimes foreigners have better knowledge than locals! I’ve been a veggie for almost two years but now I’m trying to go vegan and discovering new things. I’m happy to see the city getting more vegan options: yesterday I went to the opening of a new venue of Kensho, a place I adore. If you’re still here you need to go. And not mentioned here is Casa de Oshawa, their bakery is amazing! Egg and dairy free and they only use brown flour and natural sweeteners, though do ask bc I think some items have honey. cheers!
Hahaha… great article. I was living in Buenos Aires as a vegan for a year on 2009/early 2010… There are quite a few vegan spots I think you missed out on— pura vida (for wraps)… Bohdi (amazing vegan / vegetarian buffet), and there are also few mexican spots… Thanks so much for sharing this. I’m actually headed back there in a month. Salud!!
Is Lotus still there? In el centro, I think on Cordoba??
Thank you for your great blog, and the tip about getting vegan groceries at Casa Chino. We have been there twice now, and it is a great store. That is the only place in Buenos Aires where we have been able to find buckwheat flour (harina de trigo sarraceno). They also seem to carry whole buckwheat, but did not have it in stock when we were there.
Also, for those vegans in BA who may be searching for nutritional yeast, it is called “levadura de cerveza” here. However, that term seems to include nutritional yeast (as we know it in the US) and brewer’s yeast. The levadura de cerveza we bought at Casa China was somewhat bitter, like brewer’s yeast, but we tried a brand of levadura de cerveza called Virgen found at dieteticas, and that tastes like nutritional yeast to us. Nutritional yeast is a critical ingredient for some of our favorite vegan recipes.
Yes, dieteticas are a very veg friendly stores in all argentina. I’ve been in San Luis and Mendoza, lots of veh restaurants even when argies are one of the most dead-eater in the whole world!
Thanks for the tips! On my way to BA in a couple of months, so this will come in very handy. I’ll post what I find on my site.
This is an excellent blog, very informative. I am actually staying here in Barrio Palermo, Buenos Aires and was looking for soy milk in Jumbo but no luck there. Thanks to your blog, now I know where to go. Gracias!
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